I won't got through it all, but turns out the float level was too high (even thought it always measured right on spec). I know this is getting off topic a little, but I just spent a bunch of time fixing "weeping" problems on my 356's Zeniths. You can hold your hand right over the carbs and you can feel the popping back through the throat of the carb. ![]() That will tell you which wire is suspect. Pull the airbox cover off, and try to figure out which cylinder is popping through the carb when this happens. DO NOT assume it's not your wires just because they are new. It doesn't always act the way you think it will based on the resistance of the wire at low voltage. They are only 3 year old 8mm Taylor wires, and I had a hard time accepting a bad wire theory until I swapped wires between cylinders and the misfire moved along with the wire to the other cylinder. The ohm meter said the offending wire was fine, but it was cross-talking to another wire due to breakdown of the insulation on the wire. I just put new wires on my car because I had a misfire. Was the idle adjusted with the car GOOD and warm? They always idle slower when cold and when really hot than they do in the "sweet spot" of engine temperature (195-the middle of your gauge.) Is it possible the fuel return line from the last bank of carbs is running too close to the AC compressor to condenser line, therefore causing vapor lock? I would think that any additional heat would have to closer to the fuel feed rather than fuel return to cause this.ĩ0% of "carb problems" are ignition!! It sounds like you have a flaky plug wire and you are losing a cylinder intermittently, which would create the backfires and the engine slow down. And I havn't messed with timing at all lately, other than checking to make sure it is still on. Again this hasn't happened since I first got the car and had my first lesson in dual distributor systems (timed the rear cam bank to the PM5-8 marks, doh!). When it starts running rough (after running about 30-45 minutes) at idle, it tends to backfire. Running 135 mains, F36, 200 ac and 55 idle jets. It has cats, no air pump system/manifolds. ![]() BP6ES (from memory, I'd have to go check, but there is about 1000 miles between me and my car right now). Checked to make sure all cylinders firing-they are. Checked the sync after I finished the AC. ![]() Have been fine tuning it (in the drive-way at idle - 3000 rpm for long periods while adjusting freon levels in relation to head pressure for the optimum amount of coolant (pressure v.
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